Permanent Hair Straightening – Brazilian vs. Yuko vs. Opti-Smooth
Okay, let’s talk straight. For decades, women of African descent around the world have relied on various proven methods to “relax” their hair. Then about a decade ago, the Yuko system made a big splash among people of all stripes when it arrived from Japan, followed by Opti-Smooth. Now a third contender is fighting to become the leader in hair straightening: Brazilian.
Not what its name might imply, the Brazilian is a relatively new hair straightening system that has nothing to do with pubic hair removal. It’s a semi-permanent way to straighten the hair on your head, using keratin, and sometimes formaldehyde, to tame even the frizziest locks. But while it may be taking the hair world by storm, even it has its drawbacks…
If you’re considering straightening your hair for more than just an occasional night out, you may be considering a permanent straightening system. Here are the best – and worst – of the most popular systems on offer today. Remember, success will depend not only on your hair type and how rigorously you adhere to its maintenance, but also on the skill of your stylist, as well as the products you choose to use.
Brazilian hair straightening (also known as Brazilian Blow-Out or Brazilian Keratin Treatment). The stylist applies active keratin, a protein found in the top layer of our skin that makes it waterproof and resistant, although it is sometimes used in conjunction with formaldehyde, which can be dangerous (see below). The formula is then sealed into the hair with a hot iron, eliminating frizz, curls and unruly waves. It takes about two hours, more for longer or unruly hair.
PROS: It will fade out gradually which means it will eventually grow out and leave you with natural waves once again. It takes less time in the salon and generally costs less than the Yuko or Opti-Smooth system. Leaves hair with more body than the Yuko System and can be used on both colored and virgin hair.
CONS: The effect does not last as long as Yuko or Opti-Smooth, around three to four months. And if the product contains actual formaldehyde, a known carcinogen, you’ll need to check with the salon first—this could be a health hazard, both for you and your stylist. Please note that the FDA does not regulate the use of formaldehyde in cosmetics.
The Yuko System. Created in the 1990s, this can straighten any type of curly hair in about five hours, for about six months depending on the hair. After a consultation with your stylist, your hair will be washed and sectioned, then the application will be applied for approximately 20 minutes, depending on the length of the hair, etc. It will then be flat ironed and a neutralizer will be applied to restore the bonds of the hair. It will then be rinsed, followed by a blow-dry, combing, and perhaps a trim. The entire process takes approximately five hours in total.
PROS: They last forever. That means you won’t see any curly hair until new hair grows.
CONS: They last forever. That means when you grow new curly hair, you’ll have a ring of frizz on top followed by dead straight hair. The only way to look “normal”, with hair completely straight or completely curly, is to have your hair styled again, in about six months, or to straighten the tops with straightening irons. Also, repeated application of the Yuko system can cause extensive damage to the hair, and not just to the ends. Its use on colored hair is not recommended as it will damage it too much.
Opti-Soft. Similar to the Yuko system, but you’ll have a choice of results: cold straightening is for less frizz, progressive straightening will leave your hair looking like it’s just been blow-dried, and hot straightening will make it look like a flat iron. straight rod (that’s what happens, honey!).
PROS: Lasts forever (see Yuko, above). If your hair is shorter or you choose cold straightening, the hairdressing time will be considerably reduced.
CONS: Lasts forever (see Yuko, above). Unlike the Yuko system, however, Opti-Smooth claims to be kinder to hair in the long run, with less damage and breakage. Not for colored hair.
Other ways to straighten hair
* Air dry. Many people look to blow-drying their hair to leave it sleek and smooth, though often only a salon blow dryer can have truly effective results. It can damage the hair in the long term.
* Hair straighteners. Today there are a variety of hair straighteners or straighteners on the market; those with ceramic plates are generally considered the best, as they work by gliding through your hair without it catching on the edges and breaking. It is recommended to use them sparingly with special products/gels that minimize heat damage to the hair.
* Relaxing Kits for the Home. Much like a DIY salon style routine. Apply straightening cream, leave to act, rinse, smooth with an iron, neutralize, wash and dry. It takes about two hours total, more for longer hair. Good luck!
* Ironing. There was a time when many young women ironed their hair -with a clothes iron- to have straighter braids. The process could take up to an hour and was often reserved for special occasions. Two people were required: one to lay his head on the ironing board while the other held the iron. She had to be a trusted friend, with excellent vision!
Hair straightening is just another way us mortals deal with the “grass is greener” syndrome. In the 1970s and 1980s everyone was rushing to get a perm and make their straight hair curl, now the opposite is the talk in town.
If you decide to go the permanently straight route, it’s important to find a salon you trust. Be careful if your hair is colored, dyed or even just highlighted as this can affect the outcome of the straightening process, even if your stylist assures you that it is not!
Also remember that all chemically straightened hair will require a good hair care routine to keep it looking good. This means using a protein-rich shampoo, conditioner, and other anti-frizz products, as locking in as much moisture as possible will be crucial to maintaining that salon-style look.