Rock climbing in Kentucky
At first glance, rock climbing in Kentucky may seem like a far-fetched idea. On the contrary! Red River Gorge offers great rock climbing areas in KY.
Rock climbing in Kentucky
Located in the Daniel Boone National Forest, the largest area of the Red River Gorge is over 26,000 acres. The Red River runs approximately 20 miles through the area. The area around the river is packed with rock climbing opportunities with multi-pitch walls, boulders and climbing roofs to test your vertical technique. Red River Gorge can be reached by car in about an hour from Lexington, Ky. Trails and campgrounds are plentiful in the area, so you can make a weekend out of your trip.
Rock climbing is allowed through most of the gorge, but some areas are off-limits. You can ask the rangers for a list, but generally you can’t go up or down any of the arches. Also, all routes are preset and climbers are prohibited from starting new routes without first obtaining permission from the rangers. Sorry for the disappointment, but you don’t want to be arrested.
When climbing rocks in the Red River Gorge, there are a few areas that receive universal approval. For traditional climbing, the following areas stand out:
1. Pebble beach
2. Sky Bridge Ridge
3. Fortress
4. Long wall
All of these areas have epic climbing routes with ratings well above five.
Sport climbing presents an entirely different challenge and the Red River Gorge area faces it. The main areas include:
1. Global Village with multiple promotions
2. Military wall
3. Rock on the edge of the road
4. Pebble beach
5. Sky Bridge Ridge
If you are new to the area, the two best places to visit are Pebble Beach and Sky Bridge Ridge. Each offers a variety of climbs, giving you the best opportunity to test your technique and take on some challenges.
There are other areas in Kentucky that offer solid rock climbing. The Red River Gorge, however, is the king of the mountain when it comes to climbing areas in KY.